The Portugal File: Part 1 – Alentejo
Everything I’d send a friend (and now you) about the most soulful region of Portugal.
When I moved to Lisbon four years ago, I had no idea what Portugal had to offer beyond Lisbon, Porto, and the Algarve. And I realized many people felt the same. Of course, with the recent hype, Portugal has been explored much more, but still, some places remain off the grid for the majority. That being said, I thought a lot about whether I'd write this post or not—you know, keeping the secrets safe. But I know that some of the places I'll share here are really for the conscious people looking for a slow pace of life for some days, unplugged, away from everything, so I'm sure you'll savor this with moderation. Kidding, but true.
This is going to be a series of three (at least for now) posts: Alentejo, Lisbon, and Around Lisbon, as I want to make sure I've added only the good, curated, cool tips for you as I do for my friends who come to visit. And I decided to start with Alentejo because my Substack friend
from asked for tips! So, perfect timing. Also, Alentejo has my heart.I'm writing this and already suffering with a hot day in Lisbon; I feel that we jumped from winter to summer with no stop in the spring. This week we're already over 30 degrees in Lisbon, and Alentejo is the hottest region of the country—like, really hot! That's why I'd avoid it during July and August, unless your idea is to stay by the pool all day (have done before—no regrets!).
Alentejo—literally meaning "beyond the Tejo (Tagus River)"—is the biggest region of Portugal and stretches from the center to the Algarve (south of Portugal). To make it easier, I'll divide it into three:
The fancy and hype Alentejo: Comporta Region
The artisanal and countryside Alentejo: Évora Region
The wild coast Alentejo: Costa Vicentina
Each of these regions has its charm, and they can be very different. Maybe they all share the white houses with blue windows, but they are very unique.
PS: This post is too long to read by email — better on the Substack app!
🌴 Comporta Region
The fancy and hype Alentejo.



Not my favorite beach, but definitely the best hotels.
It’s gotten a lot of attention in the past few years, mostly because a handful of famous people (Madonna, Christian Louboutin, Philippe Starck) bought property in the area for their ultra-private summer homes. But now, it’s the center of the most stunning and luxurious hotels.
The beaches are long and raw, the sunsets are good, and the vibe is “barefoot rich.” And I totally get why some people love that.
If you’re curious or craving that stylish-escape energy, here’s what I do recommend:
Where to Stay
Spatia Comporta – On top of my wishlist right now, this hotel is absolutely stunning.
Vermelho Melides – Christian Louboutin’s hotel. Over-the-top in the best way. Tiles, color, and character. Expensive but feels like an experience.
Pa.te.os – Stunning architecture, perfect for people who like brutalism softened by nature.
Quinta da Comporta – Probably the most popular hotel in the area. A mix of rustic, modern, and wellness-y vibes. Gorgeous spa and pool.
Cabanas no Rio – Two minimalist huts by the river. Very romantic, very small.
Sublime Comporta Villas – Expensive but beautiful.
Where to Eat
Almo Comporta – Beautiful design, fresh dishes, and a bit of a Nordic-meets-Mediterranean twist. I like it for lunch.
Mesa Comporta – Cozy, elevated, and thoughtful.
JNCQUOI Deli Comporta – Haven’t been yet, but I’m dying to go — mostly for the decor. It looks beautiful.
Mercearia Gomes – More low-key and local. Good for stocking up on snacks, groceries, or last-minute wine before heading to the beach.
Cavalariça – Set in a former stable, great food and a cool setting. More contemporary.
São João (in Brejos) – Think grilled fish and a break from the hype. Casual and solid.
Shops to Peek Into
The Life Juice – Love the curation here. It’s a mix of fashion and interiors with really great taste. Everything feels effortless but intentional.
Fashion Clinic (Carvalhal) – One of the most beautiful shops I’ve ever been to. The space, the light, the edit… it’s all so good.
Caju Comporta – Lovely clothing and accessories, very beach chic.
Vida Dura – Home goods, slow-living aesthetic, good gift shop if you want something that feels local without being kitsch.
Lavanda – Linen everything. Unique curation.
What to Do
Go to Praia do Carvalhal or Pego — early morning if you want peace, late afternoon if you’re in it for the rosé and golden hour crowd.
Bike through the rice fields — best done early, unless you enjoy full sun on your forehead.
Buy figs or peaches from the side of the road — always worth stopping for.
🍇 Évora Region
The artisanal and countryside Alentejo



If you’re looking for a very traditional Portugal — this is your place.
I’ve been around many times, and it always feels like time travel. There’s something about it that’s deeply rooted and unplugged. I can’t explain it fully — you just feel it.
You’ll find some very special hotels here (the region has been growing and developing a lot lately), but outside of Évora or a few other towns, the infrastructure is still very simple. So come with that in mind — and embrace it.
This is also where you’ll stumble upon artisanal workshops, especially ceramics and textiles. It’s countryside Portugal at its purest: olive trees, cork fields, and those never-ending golden hours.
Tip: Always check Google Maps for driving distances — towns might look close, but they’re often not well-connected. Also, restaurants usually close around 3pm and reopen after 7:30pm — so don’t get caught hungry at 4pm.
Where to Stay
São Lourenço do Barrocal – My favorite in the region. An old farming village turned into a hotel. Beautifully restored, understated luxury, great food, and a perfect pool for summer days.
Dá Licença – An art-filled boutique hotel with sweeping views. Elegant, quiet, and full of personality.
A Casa do Governador – A more rustic and charming option near Évora, with cozy rooms.
Herdade da Malhadinha Nova – A bit more polished and wine-focused. Gorgeous views and amazing food.
Monte da Bela Raposa – Small, charming guesthouse with personality. More intimate and low-key.
Where to Eat
Fialho (Évora) – Traditional Alentejo food, old-school and iconic. Come hungry.
Botequim da Mouraria (Évora) – Only a few seats at the counter. Homemade dishes, big flavors, very casual. You’ll likely wait — worth it.
Mercearia Gadanha (Estremoz) – Contemporary Alentejo cuisine. Good wine list and nice to visit if you’re already exploring the area.
Cavalariça Évora – Sister to the one in Comporta. Stunning space and a great take on seasonal Portuguese ingredients.
Do Largo (Évora) – Casual and friendly. Great for lunch outdoors when the weather’s nice.
Tua Madre (Évora) – Cozy and creative with a seasonal menu. A nice option for dinner.
Shops + Artisans
Olaria O Patalim (São Pedro do Corval) – One of the most famous pottery villages in Portugal. You can visit multiple ateliers here.
Fabricaal (Reguengos de Monsaraz) – Traditional textile workshop still operating with old looms. You can book a visit to see the production.
Saturday Antiques Market (Estremoz) – A dream for vintage lovers. Go early, bring cash, and don’t be afraid to dig.
What to Do
Visit Monsaraz – A magical hilltop village with white-washed walls, cobblestone streets, and the most stunning views over Alqueva Lake. Go for sunset if you can.
Wander the Ruas Floridas de Redondo – If you happen to be in Alentejo during this bi-annual festival, don’t miss it. The whole village is covered in handmade paper flower decorations — it’s unreal.
Explore the historic center of Évora – One of Portugal’s oldest cities and a UNESCO World Heritage site. You’ll find Roman ruins (yes, actual Roman ruins — the Temple of Diana is right in the middle of town), a Gothic cathedral, and streets that make you feel like you’re inside a history book. Just walk and get lost.
Go for a swim in Alqueva Lake – Peaceful, warm water, and no waves. It feels like you're in the middle of nowhere.
Stop for olive oil tasting – Many local producers offer visits and tastings. Just check ahead and book in advance.
🌊 Costa Vicentina
The wild coast of Alentejo (and my biggest love)



This is the wild and off-the-grid coast of Portugal. My first time there was the biggest surprise. I remember thinking: how is it possible that I’ve never heard about this?
Ok, I don’t want to create false hopes… so let me be clear: I’m not a beach club person. When I go to the beach, I want silence, space, a clean view of the ocean, and time to read my book with no one too close. That’s my vibe. And that’s exactly what Costa Vicentina offers.
I highly recommend doing a road trip from Lisbon to the Algarve passing through this coast — especially if you have time and want to discover the “in-between” places. But you can also just come directly to this region, stay in one of the towns or villages, and take short drives to the beaches and restaurants nearby.
Some of my favorite places to stay are Odeceixe, Vila Nova de Milfontes, or Zambujeira do Mar — each with its own charm, and all within reach of stunning, wild beaches.
Where to Stay
Craveiral Farmhouse (São Teotónio) – A beautiful rural escape that still feels relaxed. Great for kids or longer stays. Nature all around, plus a pool.
Monte da Bemposta (Zambujeira do Mar) – Rustic and simple but full of charm. Ideal for slow mornings.
Herdade da Matinha (Cercal do Alentejo) – Colorful, creative, and cozy. It has that homemade feeling but with thoughtful design. Feels like staying at a friend’s countryside house (if your friend made fresh bread and had horses).
Where to Eat
Tasca do Celso (Vila Nova de Milfontes) – Cozy and traditional. Book ahead.
Assador Altinho (Odeceixe) – Casual and so good. Great grilled meats and daily specials. No reservations, so come early.
Paparoca Sandwicheira (Zambujeira do Mar) – Simple sandwiches, juices, and laid-back vibes. Perfect for a beach picnic or quick lunch.
Cantinho dos Sabores (Zambujeira do Mar) – Simple and good options for breakfast and brunch.
What to Do
Praia da Amália – A hidden gem. A short trail through trees takes you to a wild, dramatic beach. Named after Amália Rodrigues, who had a house nearby.
Praia da Arrifana – One of the more well-known beaches on this coast, especially for surfers. Long and beautiful.
Praia de Odeceixe – One of the most unique beaches in Portugal, with a river meeting the ocean. Great for swimming.
Praia do Carvalhal (Odemira) – Quiet, soft sand, and cliffs. Not to be confused with the Comporta one!
Praia do Alteirinhos – Less crowded than Zambujeira, surrounded by dramatic rock formations.
Zambujeira do Mar for sunset – Just go. Walk along the cliffs, bring a bottle of wine, stay until the light disappears.
Do nothing (on purpose) – This coast invites it. Long walks, reading in the shade, watching the waves. Let the pace reset you.
I have to be honest — I’ve never actually visited a shop in this region. And truthfully, that’s kind of the point. Costa Vicentina is not about shopping. It’s about walking barefoot, eating grilled fish, finishing that book you’ve been dragging for months, and remembering how good it feels to be offline.
✨ That’s a Wrap
Wow — this is really GOLD!
And honestly, it took me so much time to put everything together for you, so I hope it’s helpful. If you liked it, please share it with anyone you know who’s planning a trip to Portugal — or dreaming about it. This is a free post, so sharing helps me grow this community, and I appreciate it so much.
Now, let’s chat:
What other parts of Portugal do you want me to curate next?
I’m always around in the comments or on Instagram DMs: @raquelsouza.co
See you soon ✨
Raquel, WOW. This list is incredible. I knew immediately how well curated every single recommendation is. Plus now I have a much better feel for the different regions. It also confirms my instinct that I was on to something special when I decided to book this holiday. Thank you a million times. I will be sharing with anyone who ever asks about Portugal. Looking forward to Lisbon! X
This is fantastic! We’ve explored a lot of the Alentejo but not yet your third region. It’s on my list and now your recommendations will be super helpful. Thank you! We just toured Estremoz this weekend and camped nearby. It was lovely and very hot.