The Portugal File: Part 2 - Lisbon

My go-to spots for food, coffee, views, and more in the city I now call home

Today is Portugal Day, and by the end of this month, I’ll be celebrating four years of living in Lisbon — so it felt like the perfect moment to share the second part of my Portugal Edit: my beloved Lisbon.

This guide isn’t about ticking off tourist must-dos — it’s about the places I genuinely love and return to, the ones I’d take a friend visiting from abroad. You probably won’t find the most famous or traditional spots here, and that’s on purpose. One: I rarely go to them. Two: you can easily find them elsewhere.

The city is blooming with lots of new and exciting options, and this list is ever-evolving. If you visited Lisbon more than three years ago, I can confidently say you’ll find a completely different vibe today. It’s incredible how much it has changed (I won’t dive into how problematic that can be on the social side) — but from a lifestyle perspective, it’s such a better city right now.

The weather has been just perfect lately — warm enough for beach days, but still bearable for long walks around the city. If you’re planning a summer trip to Lisbon, you’ll want to bookmark this. And if you follow me here on Substack, let’s grab a coffee when you’re in town — I love meeting new people!

I did my best to choose my top 10 across a few categories — so please, enjoy!

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Neighborhood Picks

I live in Campo de Ourique and spend about 99% of my time in this "west side" pocket of the city — so this guide leans heavily on spots around here: Campo de Ourique, Estrela, Lapa, Santos, Príncipe Real, and Cais do Sodré. For my taste, they’re the best.

That said, Lisbon is small and very walkable (as long as your legs are ready for the hills lol). There are other neighborhoods that are worth the visit and maybe more traditionally charming, like Graça and Alfama. I don’t go as often, so I’m not the best person to guide you there — I made my best to include some spots too.

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Cafés

Let’s start with my favorite category: cafés.

1. Heim | 2. Do Beco | 3. Comoba

The one I go for…

• the vibe: Do Beco (Santos)

• the food: Monka

• escape the crowd: Calmô

• the pastries: Marquise

• meeting a friend: Hello, Kristof (São Bento)

• lunch: Fresco

• people watching: Heim

• matcha: Comoba

• brunch: The Marvila Bakehouse

• healthy options: Amun

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Food & Drink

Hard to keep this list to only 10, so I made it 10 categories — with more than one option each.

1. Cucina di Amici | 2. Magnolia | 3. Insaciável

• Happy Hour: Magnolia and Pippo

• Italian: Cucina di Amici and Fiammetta

• Pizza: Lupita and Lero Lero

• Burger: Dallas (the best — no second option here!)

• Portuguese with a twist: Pigmeu and Outro Tempo

• Bar: Insaciável and Padaria do Povo (low-key with the best pastel de bacalhau)

• Wine: Vino Vero and After Hours

• Dinner: Da Noi and Cortesia

• Traditional: Portugalia and Café de São Bento

• Tascas (the classic Portuguese cheap restaurants with paper tablecloths + generous food): O Arêgos and Cantinho do Alfredo

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Shops Worth Visiting

Lisbon might not be the first city that comes to mind when you think of shopping, but if you’re into design, curation, and unique finds — you’re in for a treat.

1. A Vida Portuguesa | 2. +351 | 3. Good Company

• Good Company Bookshop — books and tea in a beautiful interior, my kind of place

• Bryon Studios — hand-painted textile, small brands, and beautiful branding

• Fashion Clinic Home — high-end design and interiors under a luxurious setting

• Embaixada — concept store housed inside a neo-Moorish palace in Príncipe Real (the space is as good as the selection)

• Casa das Velas Loreto — an old-school candle shop that feels like stepping back in time

• +351 — Lisbon-born label with relaxed, minimal staples and a great vibe

• Sapataria do Carmo — for classic, handmade Portuguese shoes (been around since 1904)

• Zilian — locally-designed shoes with personality; the Lisbon girls love it

• Companhia Portuguesa do Chá — beautiful tins, great gifts, and a calming space to explore tea

• Cecile *M — authentic and cool ceramics

• Next Memory — Perfume atelier where you can mix fragrances to create your own

• Luvaria Ulisses — the tiniest glove shop in the world, and an icon

• Disco Wheel — ceramic shop with classes

• Earlymade — curates emerging designers and timeless pieces in a cozy spot in Santos

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Places to Visit

These are the spots I love for a dose of culture, nature, or architecture — the kind of places I actually go back to, or always recommend.

1. Gulbenkian | 2. Estufa Fria | 3. MAAT

• MUDE — Lisbon’s design and fashion museum. Recently opened after long years on renovation.

• Estufa Fria — a hidden botanical greenhouse in Parque Eduardo VII. Peaceful, lush, and totally worth a visit.

• Castelo de São Jorge — I know, it’s a classic. But the views and the walk through the castle grounds still get me every time.

• Museu Nacional do Azulejo — beautiful building, incredible tile work. One of Lisbon’s most unique museums.

• MAAT — for the architecture alone, but also good for catching contemporary exhibitions.

• CCB (Centro Cultural de Belém) — concerts, exhibitions, and an excellent café terrace. They always have something interesting going on.

• Fundação Gulbenkian— my favorite museums in the city, with its gorgeous garden and peaceful vibe.

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Walks and Views

These are my go-to walks and viewpoints — whether I want to unwind, show the city to someone, or just be amazed by Lisbon all over again.

• Miradouro da Senhora do Monte — unbeatable panoramic view

• Jardim da Estrela — local and lovely, perfect for a relaxed afternoon

• Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara — classic and perfectly located in Príncipe Real

• Miradouro de Santa Luzia — romantic and tiled, a postcard view of Alfama

• From Docas de Santo Amaro to MAAT — a riverfront walk where I felt in love with Lisbon

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Move the Body

If you’re spending more than a few days here and want to feel like a local, here are some beautiful studios and gyms to keep your routine going.

• Studio Rise — my favorite for cycling.

• Leela Lisboa — real and great yoga.

• Club 7 — my everyday gym, they offer day pass.

• Prescription Pilates — dynamic reformer Pilates (3 different locations)

• Jaya Aerial Lab — for something fun and totally different: aerial yoga and acro classes in a creative, artsy space.

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Where to Stay

If I didn’t live here, I’d stay at one of these. Stylish, well-located, and full of personality.

• Hotel das Amoreiras — elegant and peaceful, facing one of the city’s most charming gardens

• The Vintage Hotel — design-forward, central, with a great rooftop bar

• Bairro Alto Hotel — one of the most iconic hotels in the city

• Sublime Lisboa — if you know Sublime in Comporta, you’ll get the vibe: boutique, intimate, luxurious

• Hotel Hotel — cool, contemporary interiors and a creative crowd

• TocTocToc Hotel — charming and colorful, with a garden and a homey feel in the Estrela area

• Pátio do Tijolo — minimalist and chic, nestled in the perfect Príncipe Real location

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So that’s my Lisbon!

A personal, ever-evolving edit of the places I truly love in this city I now call home. I hope it inspires your trip, your walks, your bookmarks. If you’ve been here before, maybe you’ll discover a new side of it — and if it’s your first time, I hope it feels welcoming, special, and a little more personal with this guide in hand.

As always, I’d love to hear what you think — drop your favorite spots in the comments, save this post for later, or share it with a friend planning a trip. Did I miss something? Do want any more tips? Let me know!

Next up: my edit of the best day trips around Lisbon — places you can easily go and come back, but truly can’t miss.

Obrigada for being here.